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The majority of people believe that strap sizing is the width of its lugs – 20 mm, 22 mm, done. This puts the strap on the watch. It doesn’t fit the wrist comfortably. Length, taper, thickness, and hole placement are just as important—especially at the ends of the range, on wrists smaller or larger than the “standard” most straps are designed for.
If you’ve ever had a strap tail that passed the keeper or a buckle that only fits on the last hole, this is why. Here’s how to size properly for your wrist.
Measure your wrist
Take a soft tape measure around your wrist just below the wrist bone, where your watch sits. Pull it snug, but not tight. Read the number in millimetres. If you have no tape, then wrap a strip of paper around, mark where it overlaps, and measure against a ruler.
Measure during the day. Wrists will swell during the day, and an 8 am size will be tight at 4 pm.
For a general reference: < 160 mm is small, 160–185 mm is approximately average, > 185 mm is large. They’re not hard lines, but it’s where strap fit begins to change.
What strap lengths mean
A two-piece strap is given as two numbers, such as 120/75 mm. The first is the long half with holes; the second is the short half with a buckle. Add the case lug-to-lug length, and you get the strap’s total circumference.
Most straps are cut to a “regular” length, which suits the average wrist. Many makers also offer short and long versions. A 10–15 mm difference on the long half usually determines whether the buckle sits centred under the wrist or off to one side.
The object is to get the pin in the middle holes, not the first or last. This allows the strap to loosen in the heat and tighten during the winter months.
Small wrists
On a small wrist, a regular-length strap is too much. The long half is too far over the keeper, the tail is looping over, and the watch is stuck on the last hole with no tighter hole available.
What helps:
- Short-length straps. Find them; they are real, and they solve most of these issues.
- A tapered strap. The whole effect is lighter and closer if the strap narrows towards the buckle.
- Pin buckle over a deployant. Less metal under the wrist, less bulk, it won’t catch on a desk edge.
- Thinner material. A thin strap keeps the watch from looking oversized.
- Floating keeper. Any extra tail is kept flat by a second loose keeper.
Avoid thick padded straps, long-version straps, and heavy deployants. All three add volume where there’s no need.
Large wrists
For a large wrist, the problem is flipped. The strap barely reaches, the buckle is on the first hole and the tail doesn’t even get to the keeper. The strap is also thin and the watch appears to be small even though the case might be a decent size.
What helps:
- Long-length straps. The biggest change. Often it’s just an extra 10–15 mm.
- A wider strap with little or no taper. Additional material on the wrist provides counterbalance.
- A deployant clasp with micro-adjust. Wrists swell more throughout the day; this is more important if they are larger.
- Thicker straps or padding. A large wrist will look better with a lot of bulk on it, whereas a small wrist will look better without.
- Nylon as a backup. It runs long and adjusts to any size.
Avoid dress straps that are too short and thin, and avoid narrow tapers that make the watch look smaller than it is.
Material and thickness change the fit
Two straps can have the same length numbers but fit differently. A thick leather/padded strap will take up a bit of length as it wraps around its thickness and will fit about 10–12 mm shorter than a thin sailcloth or nylon watch strap of the same length. Rubber grips the skin and wears snug. Nylon is soft and slack.
Between sizes, choose the shorter length for thin materials and the longer for thick ones. Also keep in mind leather will stretch slightly as it wears, while rubber and sailcloth do not.
Quick guide
| Wrist | Strap length to look for | Best suited to |
| Under 150 mm | Short | Slim straps, pin buckle, taper |
| 150–160 mm | Short or regular | Slim to standard, pin buckle |
| 160–185 mm | Regular | Most straps as sold |
| 185–200 mm | Regular or long | Standard to wide, deployant with micro-adjust |
| Over 200 mm | Long | Wide, padded, or nylon |
Piece lengths vary by manufacturer, so refer to the millimetre measurements on the product page.
The short version
Measure your wrist at the end of the day, aim for the middle holes, and choose length first. Short, slim and tapered are the keys to small wrists. Long, wide and adjustable for large wrists. Get the fit right, and nearly all other sizing issues disappear.
